Tuesday, July 31, 2012

July 31—Peterhoff



Today we set off for Peterhoff, one of the palaces of Peter the Great on the Gulf of Finland. On the way we saw several monuments commemorating Russian victories over other countries. It seems Russian leaders like to create monuments to their victories. We also saw a school that was built in the shape of a hammer and sickle during the Soviet days. We learned it is possible to identify when apartment buildings were built by the style of the building. The buildings are referred to as Stalin houses, Krushchev houses, Putin house, etc. 

Since we were on the road that went to Peterhoff and the President’s residence in St. Petersburg, the side of the buildings facing the road was maintained. The other sides of the building “not so much”.  All we have seen up to this point are apartment building, no row houses, or individual residences except for palaces. Many Russians have an apartment in St. Petersburg and a summer house “dachas” where they spend June, July and August. As we drove further from the city we began to see dachas, which were usually houses or cottages for individual families.

Peterhoff was largely destroyed in World War II “referred to here as “World War the second” and has been recreated. Many of the statues were buried in the ground to protect them. Some of the statues have been rediscovered as recently as the last couple years. We arrived at Peterhoff just after they turned on the fountains. There are over 150 fountains as Peter the Great was fascinated with Europe and wanted Peterhoff to rival Versailles.

The figures in the fountains are covered with gold, which has to be redone frequently. The fountain figures were replated with gold for this summer season so the gold was very bright.

Peter the Great had an interesting sense of humor. On the large walkway back to his private residence he built a fountain under the walkway with small jets on the sides to spray people as they came to see him. In the days of hoop in long skirts and powdered wigs the guests probably were amused, but who would scold the tsar! We visited another joke fountain with a metal tree and flowers spraying water. The stone walkway past the fountain had stones that would trigger a spray of water if you walked on them. The adults in our group carefully followed our guide across the stones and were able to cross without getting wet. The kids didn’t get wet the first time either, but continues to walk back and forth on the path becoming bolder each time until they were jumping up and down on the stones hoping to trigger the water spray. They were successful several times and greatly enjoyed the fountain.

We toured a bath house that had all the comforts of home, a sitting room for ladies in waiting, a tub with steps down to the seat and an overhead chandelier that sprayed water, a dining room for guests, a kitchen and a shower room with water spraying from a center fixture and jets all around the room.

Russian Folk Show—In the evening we walked a few blocks from the hotel to another old ‘castle’ to see a traditional Russian folk show, “Feel Yourself Russian”.  The audience was largely Asian.  Masha had advised us to get there early in order to get good seats, and once again, it was good advice.  We were in the front rows on the side of the theater, which was clearly built as a ballroom/presentation hall with a stage.  The show opened with a men’s quartet that sang traditional songs in rich operatic tones.  It was a great start to the evening. 

The rest of the evening was a mixture of music and dance, some of it elegant, and much of it quite humorous.  It became clear that physical humor translates well from culture to culture, even with a language barrier.  Some of the style and tone made me think of Russian Lawrence Welk, but maybe it was just the accordion music that was the main melody of the accompanying band.  One of the highlights was the dance/sketch that consisted of two small men that were dancing/fighting across the stage and even into the audience.  The two men turned out to be one man in costume who was very skilled.

On the way back from the show, the whole group stopped at a small restaurant below street level across the street from the hotel.  It was a very nice find!  The food was comparably priced and most all of us tried the pirilgi, a small meat-filled pasta, served with lots of butter and sour cream.  There were a few other salads and bread that were shared around the table, as well as pitchers of water with generous amounts of lemon and mint leaves in them…maybe the biggest hit of the meal.  We also tried the dried fruit kissel with whipped cream, which was also tasty.

Monday, July 30, 2012

July 30—Visit to Birthplace


Visit to Birthing Hospital (by Paul Schaeffer)- The visit to the Birthing Hospital and the Orphanage was probably the central part of the trip.  Without a visit to these places, I couldn't call the  trip complete.  After all, this was a trip to discover roots. The hospital was located in an area more  or less away from the more refined and tourism centered city. Instead the view was of soviet era apartments,  slightly over grown fields and new houses and business’s being constructed.  The actual building was where Alex, the other child on the trip, was born.   I found out that I had been born in a University Medical facility. The building still bore the classic Soviet design and symbols. But had some modern and less Spartan décor. However we were not able to tour the facility but did receive a very special gift to remember by. A small baby rattle was generously provided by Natasha our guide for the excursions.

Visit to Orphanage #6 (by Paul Schaeffer)- Orphanage #6 was located closer to the center of the city, and was picturesque with the typical colorfull playground equipment.  Once again this was an experience more exciting for Alex. Orphanage #10, which was where I originated, was no longer in use. The Orphanages such as these were winter residences of orphans age 1-5 would spend time. Being July, the children were at  dachas or summer homes which will be discussed later. We were guided by a director of the Orphage.

Dinner--For dinner this evening the whole group walked a few blocks to a lovely restaurant whose English translation is "Warmness."  We ate in an outdoors courtyard and had a lovely meal with lovely companions.  Charming.

Visit with Victor (by Paul Schaeffer)- A surprise visit from an old accomplice was a welcome end to the day of remembering past experiences.  Victor was a guide and translator for My Mom and Dad on their trip to get me as well as Jay and Jenifer’s guide to get Alex. Besides sharing memories and updating us on his current situation. He also cleared up confusion with my full name and family. My birth mother did not give a father‘s name but that my Grandfather’s name as Surgavich. Making my full name; Paul, Mikhail, Sergavich, Karpushkin, Schaeffer.   Kind of ruins my nickname as MK. Probably have to come up with a new screen name. PMKSS?    

Picasaweb Russia Album

We have a lot going on, so I don't know how often we'll get the blog updated but I've tried creating a PicasaWeb Album to drop some of the pictures into as we go along.  They may not have captions just yet, but we'll get to them eventually.  In the meantime, maybe you'll get to experience some of the things we're seeing.

The web address might be available from the snapshot of albums in the upper right corner of the blog.  If not, you should be able to get back to it at https://picasaweb.google.com/100164436633006381304/Russia2012Web


Sunday, July 29, 2012

July 29--The Hermitage, and Walking Tour of the Central City July 29

Today's been a long day, but we saw a lot of things.  I hope to add some pictures to our blog as we go along, but it might take a while to sort through them and get some good ones selected.

We started off, after another big buffet breakfast again, with a walk to the Hermitage, just a few blocks away from our hotel.  However, once we got to the Hermitage, it was a lot of crowds and a lot of walking.  The 5 buildings contain an incredible amount of art from all over the (mostly) Western world...except for Russia.  Those works have been moved to the Russian Museum.  We saw so many things, including a couple of paintings by da Vinci.  I won't pretend to even describe the volume, the variety, and the grandeur of the Hermitage.  We were there for a little over three hours with Masha giving us nearly constant commentary over our wireless headsets, and I'm guessing that we didn't even get into a third of the rooms.  Here are just a few examples of the things we saw.  I'll let the pictures do the talking.


 

 



 






 



We walked to lunch on Nevsky Prospekt, one of the busiest streets in the area.  We had Russian pastry for lunch, which was delicious.  More walking mostly up and down Nevsky Prospekt, seeing many interesting things, including Russian department stores, specialty shops, more Russian Orthodox cathedrals, a fruit and vegetable market, and more.  We ended with a trip on the public transportation, including the subway and a trolley back to the hotel.


After a long day, we ended up eating at Subway (in Russian), with a strange Pizza Hut experience where our whole group ended up walking out, and other excitement from the Metro and trolley that I'll write more about later.

The First Day-Friday, July 28--Updated

July 28—City Tour by van
St.  Isaac’s Square – Our first stop on the tour was St. Isaac’s Square. We looked at the outside of the Cathedral. Alan and Joyce had walked around it the first evening in St. Petersburg as it is about a block from the hotel. It is a massive building with huge columns.  Numerous sculptures of the apostles and carvings of scenes of Jesus’s life adorn the outside. We plan to visit the inside some evening when we can walk up to the colonnade for beautiful views of the city.  The cathedral was opened in 1858, but designated a museum to atheism during the Soviet era.

Souvenirs –After driving around the University and a stop along the Neva River, we visited a very large souvenir shop. It was a very colorful place with many hand painted items. There were nested dolls of all sizes and colors, with detailed hand painting. Father Frost, the Russian Santa Claus, was represented in many sizes some with detailed nativity scenes painted on them. Most were both hand carved and hand painted. The Faberge eggs were especially beautiful, many opening to reveal a palace to some small figure inside. At first I was very surprised at the high prices, but understood after considering the detailed hand carving and painting each item contained. Since this is our first day here, we noted the prices and decided to compare them to others we knew we would see later.

Church on Spilled Blood was our next stop. This church is now a museum. It  has  has a colorful exterior with 5 domes, some covered with gold leaf and others with what looks like colored striped or tiled patterns. Every inch appears covered with carvings and paintings.  The church was built to commemorate the death of Tsar Alexander II. He had been told by a mystic that he would survive 7 assassination attempts. He was mortally wounded during the seventh attempt at the site that is now the church. The walls, columns, arches and ceiling of the church are all covered with mosaics icons depicting scenes from the Bible and Russian Orthodox priests. It is truly beautiful and amazing. Russian churches have no seats and worshipers stand for the entire service.

For lunch, Masha, our guide, took us to a small café where she said typical Russians would have lunch. We were very glad to have her with us as the menu was in Russian with no pictures. The café was known for their pancakes. The pancakes were a dinner plate sized thin pancake like a crepe that was filled with various meat or vegetable combinations. We decided on a dinner that included a pork pancake with salad, broccoli soup and a “iced berry tea”.  I will insert a comment about “iced” in Russia. I have yet to see any ice. I’ve decided “iced” means the item has spent some time in some type of cooler. It doesn’t mean the item is cold, but usually cooler than room temperature. If you are reading this while sipping a beverage with ice in your glass that is really cold, please enjoy it for me! Anyway, back to lunch. The soup was a thin soup and  very tasty as was the pancake.

After lunch, we walked ‘just a little ways’ to the location of the master class for mosaics.  Masha hadn’t been there for the class before, but had seen the exhibit and thought that it would be something that the children in the group (I think she meant Paul, Sydney, and Alex) would enjoy.  So we started walking.  And Walking.  And WALKING.  Alan  and Jon kept trying to keep track of landmarks, because Masha told us she would get us started and then go back to her office and we would go back to the hotel on our own.  I couldn't believe it when we were almost all the way back to the Neva River on the other side of the Summer Garden.  It seemed like a strange building for the mosaic class to be in, especially when a code was required to enter the door in the wall.  Inside, however, was a garden area with the walls covered in mosaics.


As we continued walking into the walled area, we came to benches, flower gardens, and playground all covered with mosaics. The curb-like areas around the playground were also covered with mosaics. Every 6-8 inch section had been completed by a different child with instruction from a staff person. Sydney, Paul and the other family with our group all created a section of mosaic. While they were working, Jon, Sandi, Alan and Joyce were given a tour of the mosaic garden with considerable information about the meaning of each section.

After completing the mosaics, the tired group needed to walk back to the hotel. Masha guided us back to the Church on Spilled Blood and pointed us in the right direction. The entire walk back to the hotel was about a 40 minute walk.

We have been advised not to drink tap water by both travel books and the hotel staff so we need bottled water, which costs $2-3 for a .5 liter.  With Masha’s help we found a couple places near the hotel to get it a little cheaper. The other thing we need to watch is water comes carbonated “with gas” or no carbonation “still”. After buying the wrong kind a couple times we are learning. On our way back to the hotel we discovered a little shop with “still” water in a gallon jug for 79 rubles, about $2.50. We were excited about our find and will visit them again!

After our walk and successful water purchase, we were VERY tired. Alan and Joyce returned to their room for a nap before dinner.

After some rest the Welches and Schaeffers were ready to tackle finding a place to eat. Jon, Paul and Sydney were considering the Pizza Hut or MacDonald’s we saw while walking. After some discussion, the hotel restaurant won because we didn’t need to walk very far. We were please when we were offered English menus. Norwegian salmon, minced St. Petersburg steak, Beef stroganoff and chicken were enjoyed by all. We were very surprised when we looked at our bill and noticed we were charged 1080 rubles (about $34) for 6 .5 liter bottles of water.  We discussed this with Masha the next morning and were told that since we didn’t asked for Russian mineral water, we were given imported water that of course had a higher cost. We learned another lesson!!

We hope to include photos in the blog soon. We have taken many beautiful pictures, but are experiencing some challenges getting them off our cameras. We think one of the USB cords is not working properly and we haven’t been able to find another yet. In addition the files are large and transfer slowly. We are enjoying watching some of the Olympics as we wait for the pictures to transfer.  Sporting events are great things to watch when you don’t understand the language. We may learn Russian in the process!

We will continue to work on uploading to the blog when we can. We only have access to the internet in the hotel lobby.

Saturday, July 28, 2012

After dinner tea at shtanoy

We had dinner at a local restaurant that has a Russian Military theme.  There were several courses that were tradtional Russian dishes, starting with a tasty Russian potato salad, heavy on dill and topped with thinly sliced tongue.  That was followed by a soup that, from what we can tell, consisted of lots of leftovers, but it was very tasty.  
Beef Stroganoff was next, and we learned that it came about when one of the nobles, Mr. Stroganoff, wanted to be sure and stretch his open dinner for all of those who showed up.  


After a leisurely stroll back to the hotel, we took care of business at the front desk and then retired to our rooms.

Well, not all of us stayed. Joyce an Alan did a little exploring of the immediate area and walked around St. Isaac's Cathedral, a massive structure with many bronze reliefs of various biblical themes. Even though it was 10 pm the lighting was amazing. Joyce remarked on the way back to the hotel, "we're really in St. Petersburg Russia!". Indeed we are!!

Friday, July 27, 2012

July 26-27 Getting there

Any trip starts with a first step. A trip to Russia is not any different. Chicago traffic slowed us down, but in spite of some anxious moments we made it in plenty of time.

Nearly 9 hours in tight quarters wasn't pleasant but there was good in-seat entertainment to keep us occupied.

Munich gave us a little excitement. When it came time for boarding, Jon wasn't back to the gate yet. Alan and Joyce went ahead because they weren't sure that they would be reticketed if Jon wasn't back. No problem. All 6 of us made the flight and landed in St.Petersburg on time.

We navigated customs with little problem and collected our luggage. Masha, our guide, was just outside of baggage.  We got loaded into a big van, met the other family on the tour, and were on our way to the Petropalace hotel in the heart of St. Petersburg.

Masha apologized for the 'unpretty' route, but said it was the most efficient way to get there in rush hour traffic (about 4 to 5 pm local time).  It seemed like a quick trip and soon we were in our rooms and getting refreshed for dinner at 7.

Thursday, July 26, 2012

Itinerary Finally Arrives


The night before we leave, the itinerary for our trip finally arrived!  Several phone calls between Lafayette and Mentone and some frantic packing and we're almost ready to be on the road!

Day 1 (July 26) Thursday departure from USA for Russia

Day 2 (July 27) Friday Arrival in St Petersburg. Meeting with guide at the airport.
Day 3 (July 28) Saturday St. Petersburg. 10:00 – 14:00. City tour – all major city attractions with visit to Peter and Paul Fortress. You will see the magnificent St. Isaac’s Cathedral, Vasilyevsky Island, the University, the Winter Palace, Palace Square, Church of the Savior on the Blood, the Square of Arts and other famous places and monuments. Excursion to Peter and Paul Fortress includes a visit to the
Cathedral, which serves the burial place of the Romanov Dynasty of Russian Tsars
15:00 – 18:00 walking tour of the city center


Day 4 .(July 29) Sunday St. Petersburg. 10:30 – 13:30. Excursion to Hermitage Museum.


Day 5 (July 30) Monday St. Petersburg . 10:00 – 16:00. Visit to City Orphanage and a birthing hospital.
Optional evening folk show.

Day 6 (July 31) Tuesday. St. Petersburg. 9:30 – 15:30. Excursion to Peterhoff. With its fountains, park, and world famous palace, Peterhoff is fun for the whole family to explore and an outstanding example of
Russian artistic culture of the 18th and 19th centuries. Dinner included.


Day 7 (Aug 1) Wednesday St. Petersburg. 10:00 – 20:00. Whole day trip to Zelenogorsk with a visit to Orphanage Summer Residence. Here orphans spend the summer. If weather permits, we will spend time on the Golden Beach of Finnish Gulf in Zelenogorsk.


Day 8 (Aug 2) Thursday St. Petersburg. 10:00-11:00 Boat Cruise along the rivers and channels of St-Petersburg. Free time for shopping and leisure. (Laundry?)


Day 9 (Aug 3) Friday St. Petersburg. Morning at leisure. Transfer to the train station for 4 1/2-hour
train ride to Moscow.

Day 10 (Aug 4) Saturday Moscow. 9:30 – 16:00 City tour – Red Square, Lenin's Mausoleum, St Basil's Cathedral, the Kremlin and Novodevichy Convent. Visit to the Kremlin, including the Armory Museum. 


Day 11 (Aug 5) Sunday Moscow. 10:00 – 17:00 Visit to Tretyakov Gallery State Museum of Russian Art. Appreciate the architectural splendour of Moscow's Metro System as you tour the most spectacular
stations. Following this take a walk down the Arbat, an area where you can find the colourful performers and quaint markets as well as souvenir shops. 


Day 12 (Aug 6) Monday Moscow – USA. 

Monday, July 16, 2012

Tentative Itinerary

The first stop on our Russia trip will be St. Petersburg where we will be for 7 days. While in St. Petersburg, we will visit the Peter and Paul Fortress, St. Isaac's Cathedral, Vasilyevsky Island, the University, the Winter Palace, Church of the Spilled Blood, and the Hermitage Museum. We will also visit a city orphanage, a birthing hospital and the Ministry Committee. We hope to attend a performance at the Mariinsky Opera and Ballet Theatre and an evening folk show. Outside the city of St. Petersburg we will visit Peterhof, seeing the many fountains, park and palace and Zelenogorsk, visiting the summer orphanage and, weather permitting, the Golden Beach on the Finnish Gulf.

After our 7 days in St. Petersburg, we board a train and travel to Moscow for 3 days. In Moscow we will visit Red Square, Lenin's Mausoleum, St. Basil's Cathedral, the Kremlin, including the Armoury Museum, Novodevichy Convent and the Museum of Russian Art.